Is there such
a thing as fail-safe
fencing and gates?
Maybe someday! In
the meantime, there are certain steps
you should take to make
sure your horse not only remains
in his enclosure, but remains there safely.
First of
all, consider visibility. Your horse must
be able
to see his
fencing, otherwise injuries are imminent.
While your horse shouldn't have any trouble seeing a
wood or PVC fence, wire fences pose more of a problem. Colorful
tape or ribbon tied to
the fence every foot or so makes
the horse aware of
the fence. Next, consider the height of the fence. Fencing must
be high enough to deter the horse
from going over,
and low enough to deter him
from going
under. How high
is high enough? About nose high (the horse's nose,
that is!) should
do it.
If you have more than one horse in the enclosure, put
it at the height of the tallest horse's nose.
There are many different types of
fencing to choose from, but electric, wood,
and PVC are the most popular.
Electric fence
is the most economical for horsemen
on a budget. The most popular
forms of
electric fence for horses are galvanized wire, plastic-coated wire, 1/2-inch electric polytape, or
1 1/2-inch electric polytape.
A good way to make wire fence visible to
your horse
is to tie brightly colored cloth on every strand every three feet or so. In addition to the wire
you'll need insulators, posts, hardware, and a
charger. For about
$200, you can buy everything you need to build a small electric fence
corral. If your budget is larger you might
want to investigate woodeither board, slipboard, or rustic rail. While lumber prices will vary from
area to area and do fluctuate, wood is always more expensive than wire. Wood
fencing is more aesthetically pleasing than wire and will add value to your farm, but
it will
also cost you time and
money in upkeep. Fences made out of non-pressure treated wood must be painted or stained on a regular basis, and broken or
dangerous boards must be replaced
as noticed. When installing board fencing, make sure you nail the
boards to the inside of the posts, and not the outside, to prevent them from popping off
when a horse leans against them. Nail heads should be flush, and the fence
posts should be stable. If you are in a
situation where
it is imperative
that your horses don't
get outyour pasture borders a busy
road, you want to
separate stallions from mares, etc.you might want to consider running a strand of electric wire along the top rail of the fence.
If money is no object you
can get attractive fencing
with little or no upkeep. PVC fencing is aesthetically pleasing as it looks like wood from
afar, but it never needs painting and won't rot, rust, splinter, or
break. Some manufacturers claim it is stronger than wood.
Regardless of what kind of fence you
choose, once you have it
up it is important to walk it frequently for safety reasons. Make sure there are no downed wires or boards that horses could get
caught in or
escape through. All fencing must be free of any protruding wires,
nails, or pieces of splintered wood that a horse could injure himself on. As you walk your
fence, replace any broken, sagging, or splintering boards and downed wires as you notice them. Always check your posts for sturdiness by grabbing them and
giving them a good tug;
if you live in an area where the ground temperature changes frequently you'll need to do this more often.
Remember, function is important when it comes to fencing, but so is safety!
Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15
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